I know when summer has arrived in Sydney; rich orange skin mangoes begin to appear in our weekly fruit and vegetable box. Their golden flesh has a sweet, tangy flavour and gives off a delicious floral fragrance.

Sometimes when the mangoes over ripened before I’ve had a chance to eat them fresh, I puree it and add to a traditional vanilla ice cream recipe. I have reduced the eggs in this recipe so there is a good balance of custardy creaminess that does not overwhelm the subtle aroma of the mango.

ingredients

600ml pureed mango
300ml full-fat milk
50g skimmed milk powder
300ml double cream
1 vanilla pod
70g caster sugar
2 egg yolks

Mix skimmed milk powder and milk in a saucepan (this is to avoid lumps) then add the cream. Split the vanilla pod with a sharp knife and scrape out the seeds. Pop seeds and empty vanilla pod into the saucepan. Bring to the boil, take off the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.

Put egg yolks and sugar in a bowl and whisk on full speed until the mixture is pale and light. Then slowly add the hot milk (re-heat if necessary), stirring with a whisk continuously to prevent curdling. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over a medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it starts to thicken and coats the back of the wooden spoon.

Remove from the heat and strain into a bowl then leave to cool. Pop a sheet of cling film on the custard to prevent a skin forming. When cool enough mix in the mango puree then pour into an ice-cream machine, churn and freeze.

serves: 4-6
cooking time: 10 mins

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One of the advantages of living in Sydney is having a friend turn up with a banana bud cut freshly from his garden. I decide to make a Burmese-style thote; a fragrant, light yet substantial salad tossed in a salty, sour and spicy dressing.

As one banana bud is not enough for a meal, I add cellophane noodles which adds bulk as well as contrasting texture to the slightly nutty crunchy banana bud. Both ingredients are fairly bland and works particularly well with bold flavours. I always have coriander and mint in the fridge which adds freshness to the salad.

ingredients

1 banana blossom, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon white vinegar
50g cellophane or glass noodles

large handful of fresh coriander, chopped

large handful of fresh mint, chopped

1 shallot, fried in oil to make crispy shallots

3 garlic cloves, fried in oil to make crispy garlic

salad dressing

1 tablespoon roasted chickpea powder

2 tablespoons oil used for frying the shallots

2 tablespoons tamarind juice
half lime, juiced

fish sauce to taste
dried roasted chilli flakes

Peel the outer layer of the blossom which are dark rich crimson, saving some of the petals to use as a serving dish later on if you wish. When you reach the inner pale yellow core, cut lengthways into quarters. Then slice thinly as possible. To prevent discolouration swiftly transfer to a bowl of ice cold water, just enough to cover, and add the vinegar. Leave to soak for 20 minutes.

Boil water in a saucepan and cook cellophane noodles until transparent, which takes only a few minutes. Then drain and rinse under cold water to cool.

In a bowl, put the drained banana blossom, noodles and remaining ingredients. Sprinkle the roasted chickpea powder and add the remaining salad dressing ingredients. Toss well to combine and check for seasoning, add more fish sauce until there is a good balance of salty and sour.

serves: 2 as part of a shared meal
cooking time: 20 mins

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Lunch is leftover Nyonya-style chicken curry from the day before. Rather than simply re-heat and serve with rice, I shred the chicken meat and stir-fry with crispy fluffy roti, to create a dish based on the Sri Lankan kottu roti, which we ate in a mamak cafe in Malaysia. It’s a fairly rich dish and I add chillies for a bit more kick and a squeeze of lime to balance the flavours.

ingredients

1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 garlic clove, sliced
1 sprig of curry leaves
4 roti canai or paratha, chopped roughly
2 chicken pieces, shredded (left-over Noynya-style chicken curry)
2 tablespoons gravy from curry
1 dried chili, soaked and chopped
salt to taste
lime, quartered

Heat the oil in a wok or saucepan and fry garlic until it is just beginning to turn golden. Immediately add the curry leaves and toss until fragrant.

Next add the shredded chicken, chopped roti and curry gravy. Toss everything until the gravy has been absorbed by the roti and become crispy again.

Mix in the chopped chillies. You can use fresh chillies if you wish. Season with salt and serve with wedges of lime.

serves: 2
cooking time: 10 mins

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There is a crisp air this morning that signals autumn is well underway (down under) and it’s time to switch from fresh, light, zingy salads to more robust, earthy and comforting dishes. For me a big flavoured chicken curry always does the trick. I decide on Nyonya-style as Christopher and I have been talking about our time in Malaysia and of course the food.

We eat the curry (little Eva included) with a bowl full of steaming basmati rice though in Malaysia it’s often served with bread or roti to mop up all the delicious gravy. A glass of Briar Ridge Gewurztraminer matches the dish perfectly bringing out the intense floral and lime flavours that help cut through the richness of the curry.

As with most curries, it tastes much better the next day so I recommend planning ahead. It gives time for all the flavours to mellow and come together. Re-heating not only improves the flavour but also makes the meat wonderfully tender.

for the spice mixture

3 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 cinnamon stick
2 cardamom pods
3 whole cloves
2 tablespoons chilli powder*

for the ground paste

8-10 shallots or around 250g
3 garlic cloves
3 dried chillies, soaked in hot water
15g fresh turmeric root
15g shrimp paste, roasted**

100ml peanut oil
1 cinnamon stick
1 star anise
2 sprigs of curry leaves
1 chicken, cut into 8 pieces or use 8 thighs
8 new potatoes, peeled and halved
1 lemongrass stalk, bruised
250ml water
270ml coconut milk
1 teaspoon palm sugar or brown sugar
salt to taste

To make the spice mixture, dry roast each spice separately (except chilli powder) in a saucepan over moderate heat, until fragrant or just beginning to smoke. Roasting spices individually means you are less likely to burn one that takes less time to roast.

Leave to cool before finely blending in a coffee or spice grinder then mix in chilli powder. I usually triple the quantity above and store leftover spice mixture in an air-tight container until the next time I cook this curry.

Using a pestle and mortar, pound the shallots, garlic, dried chillies and turmeric to a fine paste. Best to do this in small quantities so it is more manageable, then add in roasted shrimp paste. Alternatively blitz small quantities of the ground paste in a food processor.

Heat the oil in a saucepan or wok and throw in cinnamon stick, star anise and curry leaves. Stir until fragrant then add the ground paste and spice mixture. Reduce the heat and cook the paste for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Don’t skimp on the oil as the mixture will burn and become bitter.

When the oil has separated from the paste, it is time to add the chicken, potatoes and lemongrass. Stir through before adding water. Cover and simmer for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally until the chicken is cooked through.

Add the coconut milk and simmer a further 20 minutes. Finally add the sugar and season with salt.

serves: 4-6
cooking time: 60 mins

*look for Kashmir chilli powder, as the intense red will give the curry a great colour
**wrap shrimp paste in foil and roast in oven at 180C/350F/Gas4 for 15 mins

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Gourmand World Cookbook Awards

hsa*ba wins Best Asian cuisine and Best first book awards

Recently I have developed a sweet tooth. I usually prefer savoury snacks over sweet. With only three weeks away before my due date, I now have the time to indulge a little and have a go at testing a few recipes.

I remember as a child, walking to the night market with my parents and eyeing the tempting sweets that lined the bustling streets of our local area. These sweets were usually bought from the street vendors as special treats rather than made at home.

There are several sweets that spring to mind but one in particular seem straight forward to make; folded pancakes stuffed with sweetened red bean paste and freshly grated coconut. I have almost all the ingredients in the cupboards except the filling which can be easily bought in a Chinese supermarket.

ingredients

160g self raising flour
80g rice flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
2 tablespoons sugar
100ml coconut milk
300ml water
oil for frying

filling

200g sweetened red (azuki) beans
80g fresh grated coconut
pinch of salt

Put the dry pancake ingredients in a mixing bowl. Add the coconut milk and water, stirring to form a runny batter. Rest for at least 30 minutes, preferably a couple of hours.

I am using pre-cooked red beans from a can which is rather too sweet. I make a note to make the red beans myself next time as the recipe by Grace Young is straight forward.

The key to making these pancakes is to have a seasoned flat pan. If you do not have one, use a non-stick frying pan. Lightly grease the pan with a little oil and heat on moderate heat. Using a ladle pour the batter carefully. The idea is to have an even layer of batter to cover the pan. To spread the batter, tilt the pan.

Cover and leave for a few of minutes. When bubbles appear on the surface, carefully spread the red beans and grated coconut. Remember to mix a pinch of salt with the coconut first. Cover the pan again and allow the pancake to cook for a further minute or two until the edges are golden in colour.

Using a flat-bladed knife, fold the pancake into half and ease onto a plate. Serve while warm. The outside should have a lovely crispiness and the inside soft with the filling oozing out.

Makes: 4-6
Cooking time: 15 mins

This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence.

description

Rambutan comes from the Malay word rambut which means hair. These red fruits indeed do look like hairy versions of lychees. To eat, either peel away the skin or make a score with a knife and pull the skin apart. The white fleshy fruit is firm and juicy with a seed in the middle. It is best enjoyed fresh though can be used in a fruit salad or made into a jam.

substitutes

Canned version or lychees

availability

Asian speciality shop

This quick and easy salad is something I rustled up the other day for a vegetarian friend. Normally I would add a spoonful of pounded dried shrimps and season with fish sauce. Still the vegetarian version worked well. Perhaps a handful of chopped roasted peanuts or sesame seeds would add a nice addition for next time.

ingredients

1 eggplant
130g firm tofu, cut into cubes or sticks
1 small green chilli, diced
small handful of coriander, chopped
½ lemon, juiced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
peanut oil to fry garlic and tofu
salt for seasoning

For that intense smoky flavour, pierce the eggplant with a knife to stop it bursting unexpectedly during cooking, then using a tong place over a naked flame to char until the insides are soft and squishy. Alternatively place on an oven tray under a hot grill for 15-25 minutes, turning occasionally.

Next heat enough oil to deep-fry the tofu. Fry them in batches until golden brown and drain on kitchen towel. In a separate saucepan, fry the garlic in some oil until golden and reserve oil for dressing.

When the eggplant is cooked, cut in half and roughly chop. I like to keep the skin on but you can peel it if you wish. Mix with lemon juice, fried tofu, coriander, crispy garlic and chilli. Toss with a tablespoon of garlic oil and season with salt.

Serves: 2-4
Cooking time: 15-25 mins

This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence.

This is a childhood favourite, a welcomed cooling treat during the hot season. Generous amount of crushed ice was added to the creamy coconut milk mixed with caramel-like sugar syrup and chewy sago pearls. This recipe is very simple and you can add additional flavours and textures to it if you wish. The real secret is a pinch of salt which brings out the taste of the coconut milk.

I have not had this for quite sometime and was reminded of it when we were in Taiwan last February. Known as boba or bubble tea, large brightly coloured pearls were served in chilled milky tea, a popular drink amongst the young people. We then had a similar dessert/drink in Kuala Lumpur which had the addition of balls of honeydew melon or the coconut milk was flavoured with pandan leaves.

ingredients

100g large sago pearls
1 litre water
50ml coconut milk
pinch of salt

eat with

30g palm sugar, grated
50ml water
100ml coconut milk, chilled (possibly more if you prefer)

Best to use a heavy-bottom saucepan for this so the sago does not stick to the bottom. Bring the water to a boil and add the sago pearls. Stir with a wooden spoon and pop the lid on. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer for 30-45 minutes depending on the size of the pearls. Stir every 10 minutes to make sure they do not stick to the bottom of the pan.

In the meantime, put the palm sugar and 50ml water in a saucepan. On moderate heat, stir until dissolved and strain through a sieve to remove any sediment and leave to cool.

When the sago is almost transparent all the way through, turn off the heat. Stir one more time and leave to cook in the residue heat with the lid on. After a further 30 minutes, pour into a colander and run cold water to stop the cooking process and rise away any stickiness. The pearls should be totally transparent when cooked through.

Transfer to a bowl and pour 50ml of coconut milk, sprinkle with salt and stir. This will keep the pearls separate and keep them pearly white.

Divide the sago between two glasses. Pour the coconut milk and palm sugar to taste. Best served chilled.

Serves: 2
Cooking time: 30-45 mins

This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence.

I love the idea of top-to-tail eating and when it comes to vegetables, banana trees are incredibly versatile. The leaves are used to wrap and flavour food, stems are cooked in Mohingar for added bulk and flavour, the fruits have endless uses and the blossoms are either made into salads or cooked in curries. They have a fairly neutral taste though there is a slight earthiness similar to fresh bamboo shoots. They work great with bold flavours.

ingredients

1 banana blossom
1 onion, quartered
3 garlic cloves
2 dried red chillies, soaked in hot water
1 lemon grass stalk
4 tablespoons peanut oil
1 teaspoon shrimp paste
1 tablespoon rice flour
150 ml water
250g raw prawns, peeled, deveined, leaving tails

To prepare the banana blossom, have ready a bowl of salted water mixed with some lemon or lime juice. This will prevent discolouration from occuring.

Peel the outer layer of the flower which are dark rich crimson, saving one or two petals to use as a serving dish later on if you wish. When you reach the inner pale petals, cut the blossom lengthways in half. Then slice into 1 cm thickness and plunge into the acidulated water. Leave to soak while you prepare the onion paste.

Pound the onion, garlic and chillies in a pestle and mortar or chop everything very finely. Heat the oil in a saucepan and cook the onion paste for 5-10 minutes. Add the shrimp paste, breaking it up with a wooden spoon and stir into the onion mixture.

Rinse the banana blossom under water briefly, squeeze dry and add to the pan. Take a little of the 150ml water and mix with rice flour to form a paste. Add this paste and remaining water to the pan. Stir and leave to simmer for 5-10 minutes until the blossoms are just tender. Put the prawns in and simmer for a further 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally until opaque. Check for seasoning before serving.

Serves: 4
Cooking time: 20-25 mins

This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence.